One of the finest experiences and greatest privileges of wildlife viewing in Africa is to be able to spend time watching a pack of wild dogs (or painted wolves) Lycaon pictus at their den with a new litter of puppies.

I am very fortunate to have recently concluded my 15th successful season of dogging in Botswana…with only one of those years not being successful in having a den to observe, even though we did have a pack of 13 in the area that year.

Wild dogs - this is a terrible name for these spectacular predators, and I do prefer the term painted wolves, which is the meaning of their Latin name, Lycaon pictus – for it evokes ideas of domestic dogs gone feral, which is a far cry from the reality of these truly extraordinary and social animals.

There are probably fewer that 5000 painted wolves remaining in the wilds of Africa (some say as few as 3500) and the animal is regarded as the continent’s most endangered large carnivore. But while their relative rarity does make them a special sighting on any safari, it is their social structure that makes them truly special to watch and follow.

The most social of the dog species, painted wolves occur in packs numbering from single digits to as many as 40, 50 or even 60 and these tri-coloured predators should be highly successful and far from endangered. They are the most successful hunters of all predators with a success rate that can measure over 80%, and the entire pack devote themselves to raising the next generation of puppies each year. However, because of their social structure they are very prone to disease (their constant mouth-to-mouth contact ensures any disease is spread rapidly through the pack) while persecution by humans – including wildlife managers and park wardens as recently as 50 or 60 years ago – has resulted in sightings of wild dogs or painted wolves being a relative rarity throughout their range in Africa.

But it is their devotion to the overall good of the pack that makes the dogs so extraordinary to watch, particularly during the denning season, when the ability to find and observe them every day is most assured – so long as the whereabouts of the den is known and accessible.

In recent years on my annual “Wild Dogs of Botswana” safaris (which I run in the denning season, June-August, each year) my guests and I have been fortunate to get to know several packs in northern Botswana really well, and observe some unusual behaviour too.

Typically within any pack there is a dominant, or alpha, pair and only these two mate and produce pups. The rest of the pack then dedicates their existence to assisting in raising the youngsters – protecting the den, keeping it clean, assuming “nanny” duties and, importantly, hunting sometimes twice a day in order to bring food to the pups back in the den. With litters quite capable of being anywhere from 12-18 pups, this latter duty requires considerable dedication as the fast-growing pups become more ravenous in their second and third months.

Packs usually comprise a group of closely related males, most often siblings, and unrelated females other than youngsters yet to migrate to new packs. One of the interesting aspects of the makeup of Lycaon pictus packs is this constancy of the male lineage – it is the females that typically emigrate from the pack of their birth to find a new pack or a group of independent males, where only one will be likely to join up with a male and become the new alpha female. Her sisters will have to be satisfied with a secondary role…or migrate again!

However, research and DNA studies too complex to go into in depth here indicate that most dogs invest in this system as they have the greatest chance in successfully furthering their genetic line within the pack system. If all males within a pack are of one genetic line, and all females of another, all pups born will therefore carry 50% of the genes of each sex. With the typically large number of pups born, the communal support system for the litter means that in one season each member of a pack should see their genetic lineage furthered quite extensively, even if they have not bred themselves.

So my observances in the past few years have been particularly interesting. In 2014 one of the packs I have followed for more than a decade was disrupted by the death or disappearance of both the alpha male and alpha female and the pack was left leaderless. The pack disintegrated and soon a group of females joined up with a neighbouring group of males…where several matings took place and three females produced litters…all within the same new pack and within close proximity to each other. Eventually one of the females gained ascendancy (interestingly, not the biggest or most dominant), driving off one and subduing another, and taking all the pups into her own den. What occurred underground we have no idea of, but soon the “more than 20” pups had been whittled down to 13…of which 11 have survived into this season and are now rambunctious yearlings.

So far, so good. In 2015 however, while last season’s supposed alpha female – the one that raised the pups – is still with the pack, she has become subordinate to another female who has assumed the alpha female role, along with the same male who fathered last year’s successful litter! The 2014 female appears to be quite content with her lower status in the pack, while the 2015 female certainly does appear to be the more dominant and in fact overall leader of this pack.

The same genetic reasoning outlined above would appear to be the explanation for this unusual (to me, anyway) situation – it makes no difference to the 2014 female who breeds…the pups will still be carrying her genes as it is most probable that the 2015 female is one of her sisters.

The second pack I have followed, albeit for a much shorter period, also displayed some unusual behaviour this season. While the highly successful but aging alpha female is still alive and very much the leader of the pack (pack leadership usually falls to one of the alpha pair) she was not the breeding female within the pack this year. Instead that duty fell to one of her daughters, and only DNA tests would be able to determine if it was her father who impregnated her. Another likely and possible scenario is that this female emigrated, met another pack or group of males, fell pregnant, but then decided she did not enjoy the new pack or grouping and returned to her natal pack. Again, only DNA tests could help determine this for certain…but this would have to happen soon as lions have killed most of these pups, with only one surviving!

Keeping up with the shenanigans of these packs of painted wolves each year is like catching up on a long-running soap opera after a year away from TV, and it really is only by being able to enjoy the privilege of sitting quietly watching the pups, yearlings and adults around the den, and following the pack when they leave to go on a hunt, that one can truly immerse oneself into their lives.

Perhaps the most fascinating – and endearing - aspect of the pack behaviour is how each and every member of the pack, from the alpha pair, of course, through the subordinates and the yearlings, is involved in caring for the pups and show an interest, indeed a fascination, for every aspect of their lives.

Throughout the day, when the pack usually rests in the shade near the den, dogs will come and go, poking their heads into the den entrance to ensure all is well below ground (dens are usually inside old termite mounds, in holes excavated & extended by animals such as aardvarks, warthogs and hyaenas), cleaning up any scraps of meat or puppy scats that could result in an odour that might attract the attention of other predators, and generally keeping a close watch on the surrounding bush for rivals.

The absolute frenzy of excitement shown by other pack members whenever the pups emerge from the den, with each dog apparently vying to show the most affection and attention, and the extraordinary scenes just before the pack sets off on the morning or evening hunt, when the puppies are called from the den for what appears to be a massive love-fest – “Don’t worry, we’ll be back soon, with lots more food for you!” - is heartwarming.

I’m usually totally flabbergasted each year while in these camps that the general attitude of most other guests is one of nonchalance or even total disinterest in these fascinating carnivores, most being far more interested in watching lions lyin’ asleep under a bush than observing the ongoing events around the dens.

If you are interested in joining me at the dens next year in July or August, please contact me now – group size is limited to only 4 per departure and these trips usually sell out well in advance.

Our annual Big Cats safaris in Kenya's Maasai Mara are among our most spectacular...we have unrivalled time to spend with the cats, which never disappoint in the Mara...perhaps Africa's premier big cat viewing destination for all of leopard, lion and cheetah.

Of course, often it seems the Big Cats are as interested in us as we are in them...so close enjoyment of the feline species is usually possible. 

In fact, the Cats of the Mara are generally so habituated and relaxed around vehicles that it is not unusual for them to use our 4x4s as shade, cover while hunting, or even a vantage point when scanning the generally flat & feraturteless plains for their prey!

Even guests with basic point & shoot cameras will be able to get dramatic close-ups!

We are still able to accommodate a few people on our March safaris this year, one couple only on the March 1-11 departure, and two or three couples on the shorter 6-night safari between March 12-18. We may even be able to offer a hefty discount to those booking & paying before the end of January!

If you are interested in joining us in the finest "mobile tented camp" in Kenya, guided by the finest safari guides in Africa and photographing in the finest Big Cats reserve in Africa...please contact us as soon as possible. There is only limited space left!

My good friend and colleague, John Varty - JV to those who know him - was seriously mauled by a wild tiger at his experimental tiger conservation project near the town of Philippolis in South Africa's Free State province last week.

JV is one of the most visionary conservationists, film-makers and individuals around. But by many ill-informed, misinformed, uninformed, envious, jealous or simply stupid people, JV is maligned, discredited and ignored. I have to admit that before I met and became close friends with the man, worked closely with him, and saw what he tries to do, I probably fell into that ill-informed category.

But John Varty, and his younger brother Dave, are two individuals who make a difference, and have made a difference. As young teenagers, the boys inherited their grandfather's hunting block in what is today the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, adjoining Kruger Park. While all around them were urging them to sell the property - all it had was a mud hut and some lean-to's - they had a vision. That vision turned into Londolozi Private Game Reserve, pioneering the concept of luxury and up-market non-consumptive (photographic) safaris. In my travels as a wildlife photographer, and also author of the safari lodge book Simply Safari, I have visited at least 200 leading safari camps and lodges around Africa. Londolozi stands out above most of them for the quality of its wildlife, the quality of the guides, and the quality of its accommodations.

It is no surprise that Nelson Mandela, after his release from 27 years in prison in South Africa, visited Londolozi. He hailed the reserve and the Varty's as visionaries, and proclaimed this to be a model that South Africa could follow. "There, I saw people of all races living in harmony amid the beauty that mother nature offers. Londolozi represents a model of the dream I cherish for the future of nature preservation in our country."

Today, if you speak to many of the black African neighbours to the Sabi Sand reserves, you will find disdain and hatred for many of the owners of these private reserves. For the Vartys however, there is widespread respect, love and affection.

John Varty has always had an affinity for the Big Cats. It was he who learned how to habituate leopards to close viewing by safari vehicles, and much of the great leopard viewing guests enjoy throughout the Sabi Sand reserves can probably be traced back to the original leopard JV habituated to accept vehicles in close proximity. The manner in which safari guides move their vehicles around leopards nowadays, can also be traced back to his early experiments and observations. It is a technique and protocol that today is taught at guide training schools around Africa. JV has raised orphan lions and leopards, habituating them back into a life in the wild. He was friends with the great George Adamson, and spent much time in Kenya's Kora Reserve with that legendary Lion Man of Africa.

In the 1990's JV learned of the plight of the tiger. Here is the most iconic wildlife species on the planet, better known and loved even than lions and elephants, and it is in a parlous state. Numbers in the wild have plummeted to the extent that in most of their previous range-states in Asia they are nigh extinct. Last year, the Year of the Tiger, India announced they had about 1,400 tigers left. They have not been seen in the wild in China for 30 years or more. In other countries where they once were plentiful, numbers are down to a few hundred, or mere handfuls. According to the latest published figures there are some 3000 - 3500 wild tigers left alive. This number in reality is probably far fewer…perhaps as little as 1500, or less.

According to JV, the reality is that many of the range state countries attach little if any prominence to tiger conservation. Parks are small, unfenced and poorly policed. Tigers are worth much more dead than alive. Tiger tourism, which could earn huge sums for conservation, is minuscule compared with African Big Five tourism.

When JV first learned of the situation pertaining to tigers he tried to offer his assistance, his experience and knowledge gained in developing one of the finest private game reserves in the world. He soon learned his offers were being ignored, that there was little will on the part of tiger range-state governments, that many of the multitude of tiger conservation organizations were more concerned with protecting their own niches, their own nests, than protecting the tiger. JV traveled to tiger conservation conferences around the world…using his own hard-earned funds rather than public donations like so many of the other conservationists gathered there. He soon concluded that for many at these conferences the most important item on the agenda was deciding where the next conference might be held. Rio, Cannes, Casablanca, LA?

So Varty decided to do things independently, spend his own money earned through his shares in Londolozi, his revenue from his documentary films, his big cats safaris, on buying land for tigers, fencing this land with an expensive fence good enough to keep tigers in and others out, stocking it with expensive game for the tigers to hunt, and breeding a self-sustaining population of wild, free-ranging tigers that could, perhaps one day, be used to repopulate tiger reserves elsewhere in the world.

In 2000 he bought two zoo-bred tigers from Canada. His efforts to rehabilitate Ron & Julie became the subject of the documentary Living with Tigers, shown in more than 100 countries around the world. Julie has borne nine cubs since then. Ron was killed in a territorial fight with another tiger last year…they way most male tigers would die in the wild. JV also bought two other tigers to supplement his breeding stock, Shadow and Seatao. Today Tiger Canyons has 15 tigers…free ranging, able to hunt wild game. That's an almost 400% increase in the population…figures any other true tiger reserve can only dream about! Varty is currently looking to buy more land to establish a new tiger reserve in South Africa.

Of course, one of the criticisms from many who will denigrate JV is "tigers don't belong in Africa!" Or "tigers belong in Asia" and "you can't have lions and tigers and leopards and cheetahs together in one continent". It is hard to accept that tigers care where they live, or that future generations would prefer to see no tigers (in Asia) than wild tigers in Africa. Some fossil evidence indicates that tigers could once have roamed Africa. Lions, leopards and cheetah have called Asia home, along with tigers. Varty is not advocating nor trying to introduce tigers into established African game reserves alongside existing wildlife populations. His plan, his experiment, his proposal to all who will listen, is to buy failed farmlands and rehabilitate them under wildlife. Fence them and introduce tigers along with prey species. The tigers I have watched hunting springbok and blesbuck at Tiger Canyons don't seem fazed that these are not chital deer, sambar, gaur, nilgai or any other Asian species.

Another criticism I hear often regards JV's penchant for interacting with his subjects in his films. JV in fact pioneered the involvement and engagement of the film-maker (himself) in his documentaries 30 or more years ago. At the time it was ground-breaking, and subject to much comment (negative) from old school documentary makers. Today, however, most of the network channels won't accept films unless there is a human element, a degree of human interaction, a frisson of danger. JV has made more than 30 award-winning documentaries and one feature film, starring Brooke Shields, Martin Sheen and himself. Many if not most of them involve him along with the animals. The aforementioned Living with Tigers would not have been nearly as popular, would not have raised nearly as much interest in saving tigers, had there not been the human element. Julie, the "mother tiger" at Tiger Canyons today, retains an abiding trust in JV, a love if you will, much like your pet dog or cat shows love for you. JV has been with Julie for 12 years, yet she switches between wild tigress hunting for herself, raising wild young cubs, and cuddly companion with JV at will. It is something special to see…but JV himself will tell you that if Julie is not feeling "friendly" on any particular day she will let him know, and he stays away.

Perhaps one of the most idiotic and nonsensical criticisms is that "some experts feel that this is a money making venture by Varty in an attempt to earn money from the tourism industry." Apart from the fact that Tiger Canyons does not offer any of the trappings of the tourism industry offered, for example, by places such as Londolozi and that tourist visits there are basic, rudimentary and totally education based, JV's exact model for the conservation of tigers is just that: protect them in places where tourists can be assured of seeing tigers, where tigers can earn a share of the wildlife tourism dollar, where tigers can pay their way simply by being tigers. The Londolozi model, followed so successfully throughout Africa, makes perfect sense. If the Asian governments are not going to save tigers, let private individuals do it, on privately owned land, where they can fund tiger conservation through tourism. It is a concept followed not only by private landowners, but national parks throughout the world - wildlife needs to earn its keep. If it pays, it stays, is the oft-quoted refrain.

As I mentioned above, JV is a film-maker of huge acclaim. His documentaries are screened by the world's leading and most respected television channels, including National Geographic, Discovery and Animal Planet. Yes, JV uses his films of the tigers, and also lions and leopards and anything else, to fund his conservation projects, to buy land for tigers, to buy wild game for his tigers to hunt. Considering that a blesbuck can cost R1500 (about $200) each, a springbok more than R1000, a wildebeest R2000 or more...JV has a huge feed bill! Anyone who has visited JV at his home, has seen the car that he drives, the clothes he wears, will know that this is a man who does not spend much of his income on himself, or on the trappings of luxury.

Which brings us to the attack on JV. It was not perpetrated by Julie, nor by one of the two cubs he was forced to hand-rear when they were abandoned at birth (which are now living wild and free themselves). The tiger that attacked JV was a young male called Corbett, a son of Ron and Shadow now in its 4th year. JV was not out of the car with Corbett, he was not interacting with the tiger. In fact he did not see the tiger prior to being attacked from behind, and was simply closing a gate to an adjoining camp where Julie had been kept separated from the other tigers while she was in oestrus. (JV does not want her to breed more cubs until he has more land available.) Corbett, unseen behind the corrugated iron of an adjoining gate, lunged through with one powerful paw, hooked JV and pulled him into the gate, breaking three ribs with the impact. The tiger then began to savage him, though was unable to get its head through the gap in the gate to physically bite JV. Fortunately a film crew who were with JV managed to pull him free of the tiger's claws and rush him to a nearby doctor in Philippolis, prior to him being taken to hospital in Bloemfontein. JV spent almost 6 hours in theatre having his wounds attended to, followed by several days in the intensive care unit. The biggest danger now is the possibility of infection in the wounds, always a major threat with injuries from any of the big cats…or even your pet moggie at home.

JV, who recently published his autobiography Nine Lives, will no doubt return to his tigers and the other big cats he loves as soon as he is able. He is at pains to stress that Corbett was acting the way a wild male tiger would towards someone he saw as a male rival for an oestrus female. There is currently no suggestion that Corbett should be shot or euthanised. According to JV's ex, Gillian van Houten, who visited Tiger Canyons the day after the attack, Corbett was behaving normally when she saw him.

I wish JV a speedy recovery, and a speedy and successful return to his tigers and conservation projects. And I wish too that people who do not know the man, who have not visited his tiger project, would keep their mouths closed until they are better informed!

Last year, 2011, we ran our inaugural Big Cats Safari in Kenya's Maasai Mara National Reserve in conjunction with leading UK wildlife artist Pip McGarry and his wife Jan. So successful was it that Pip & Jan both decided immediately they would bring a second group in 2012, which we hosted once again in our luxury mobile tented camp at the same site just off the Burrungat Plains we use for our Wildebeest Migration Safaris each year from August - October.

After the fantastic sightings we had in 2011, we had some trepidation going into year two...would it live up to the previous year? Of course, the Mara is such an exceptional reserve for the Big Cats our concerns were only fleeting...but we are always striving for improvement. Well, we need not have worried! This was the feedback we recieved from Pip & Jan after the conclusion of the safari:

A huge thank you for a fabulous safari again this year. Last year no stone was left unturned in making our safari as brilliant as possible and I half wondered beforehand whether you could achieve the same high standard again. Well not only did you achieve it, you exceeded last year's trip hands down!   We had the most extra-ordinary sightings of wildlife and I know from conversations held on the way home that the rest of group had a fantastic time and they echoed my feelings about the safari.  So-oooo, this is probably going to upset the hell out of you, but can we look to do the same safari again next year? I think the safari stories and photos we took are going to whet many people's appetites, I am sure word is going around to other artists on Facebook and the like.

The safari started on the 15 minute drive from the Ol Kiombo airstrip to the camp -11 lions resting in the shade of some croton bushes. With several total safari virgins on this trip, the 15 minutes took a fair bit longer, but by the time we reached camp, Pip declared he'd already taken photos that would make two excellent new paintings once he returned home. Simon Knight had been on an African safari once before, and seen three lions his whole stay, so was happy that this new trip was already a success for him!

Settled into camp, lunched and unpacked, the afternoon gamedrive started in a sudden torrential downpour, but soon we found legendary Mara lion Notch, four lionesses including our favourite, Ugly Betty, and three cubs! The aftermath of the rain resulted in some great photo opportunities with wet lions and sodden but very playful cubs.

Of course, legendary big male lions, and playful cubs, could not have set the safari off on a better course, and it was a happy, elated, group of safarigoers who gathered in the Mess Tent for an elegant candle-lit dinner later that evening.

The recurrent refrain was: "How are you going to better that tomorrow?"

Little did they - or we - know what was in store!

Fortunately the rain had cleared after dinner, so coffee and Amarula liqueurs at the fireside ended the day in true safari style. It is sad how so many safari camps and lodges nowadays have done away with the true campfire - if anything having a tiny glow in an artificial "dish" on a deck raised off Mother Earth.

Our tented safari camp is designed to recreate the essential elements of the original African safari, the way the early hunter-explorers did it...though nowadays we use trucks instead of teams of a hundred or more porters to move our camp around Kenya. Of course, we have introduced modern elements like en-suite flushing toilets in each tent, but maintained the traditional bucket showers brought to your tent on demand by your personal tent steward. While we still use the traditional parrafin or kerosent hurrican lanterns of old, we have introduced solar-powered lighting inside the sleeping tents, both as a safety and comfort thing, as well as to minimise our carbon footprint as much as possible.

All meals are taken under canvas (or under the stars if the weather allows) in our Mess Tent, at a long table elegantly lit by silver or crystal candelabra and a plethora of candles. The meals are prepared the traditional way - on a campfire, in a tin box over the coals used as an oven - by our trained safari chefs. They delight in preparing anything from eggplant parmigiano, courgette risotto, profiteroles, croissants, and tasty cakes to perfectly roasted joints of meat (and of course vegetarian, gluten free, lactose free & diabetic course for those who require them) in their rudimentary kitchen. The kitchen tour at the end of the safari always raises gasps of true amazement!

Early on our first morning, only a short way out of camp, we found two nomadic male lions who we'd heard advertising their presence in the night. They were quite cautious,and moving steadily out of the area...which is currently held by Notch and his four adult, and spectacular, sons and nephews - a powerful coalition of five BIG male lions!

We followed the two boys as they headed towards the swollen Talek River, which was in full flood after the rains of the past several days. But then, to our amazement, they leaped into the muddy waters and swam powerfully to the other side!

No sooner had we moved on from the swimming lions than Phil picked up the spoor (tracks) of an adult leopard. After following briefly, he came across the well-known leopardess Olive, who has been giving us great pleasure over recent years. We knew Olive had two tiny new cubs, and hoped to follow her to the den site. We could not have imagined where it was, and what we were about to witness.

With her face bloodied from a recent and fresh kill, we knew she would be heading back to the cubs, either to suckle them, or possibly get them to follow her back to the carcass.

Then she moved down to the river banks, and sat gazing intently across the fast-flowing torrents. I chuckled to myself, and then commented: "Imagine if the cubs are the other side, and she decides to swim through the river!"

It was a raging flood...no cat, particularly a small female leopard, would do that!

Well, I've seen leopards leaping from rock to rock before, crossing rivers. But that was to save their feet from getting wet and the river was a bare trickle. For Olive to have entered the rushing waters of the flooded Talek River was a sight to behold. Incredible. Amazing. Wow, wow, wow! And then for her to bring her tiny cubs out into the open for all to see...that was something truly special.

So, how do we top the first afternoon's game drive? Hmmm...how do we top this one!?

More leopards? Done. A kill? Tomorrow! We can't do everything in one day...after all, you are here for a week!

Early the next morningI pick up lion tracks, and follow them to where we find the pride fast asleep in a thicket. Phil & Pierre, our other two safari guides, join us for a while, but we soon tire of watching sleeping lions lie (that's how they got their name...they are always "lion" around) and move out to watch some elephants and olive baboons.

Then suddenly the baboons start alarming, frantic, and the elephants trumpet loudly. The lions are hunting! We see a small herd of zebras flash by...lions in hot pursuit, and then its over...they've got one.

We move in closer as the lionesses throttle their victim. They have several young and teenaged cubs with them and so we sit watching the feeding frenzy, marvelling at the sounds...and also the fact that the Maasai Mara is really special in March as there are so few other tourists about. We spend the whole morning with the lions as they devour the zebra...and eventually one other vehicle arrives as we are departing! A "virus-free" sighting! Exactly as our leopard the previous day had been! The Mara in March is really great.

By this stage we'd seen it all...apart from cheetah. Yes, I told you we can't do it all in one or two days. You're here for six. Cheetah next on the menu. How about a cheetah chase? OK. How about in your face, on top of the vehicle? Ha ha, yes!

Interestingly, when Phil found this female cheetah there were a few other vehicles with her, but after their obligatory five-minute stop they left, and we had her all to ourselves. (I guess the drivers were worried about missing lunch.) We sat with her for at least an hour, convinced she was hungry and keen to hunt one of the nearby Tomson's gazelles. I was also pretty sure she'd looked at the roof of my 4x4 a few times, with a look I've come to know after many years in the Mara. Not all, but several cheetahs there have grown up with and around vehicles, to the extent that they simply see a 4x4 (a green one, not a white minbus) as a high feature in the landscape, a vantage point from which to scour the plains for prey. Last October a female cheetah had jumped on my roof...and I was wondering if this might be the same one.

Sure enough though, after about an hour the cheetah decided to start a stalk of a lone Tommy on the hillside below us. Unfortunately for her, she was spotted by another Thomson's ram who gave the alarm, and after a short but speedy chase she gave up. Walking back up the hill, we positioned ourselves ahead of her near a pool of water, and sure enough she obliged by coming for a drink! Watch out for paintings from Pip and Natalie Mascall in the near future!

Then, without much further ado, she strolled between our vehicles and in one bound was on top of Phil's 4x4! Extreme low-angle close-up photos were the order of the day. Pip McGarry later declared this to be the greatest experience of all his many safaris in Africa. "We';ve seen it on BBC Big Cat Diary...now we've had it happen to us. Incredible!"

So, was that all we saw? Lions, leopards and cheetahs? Mmmm, not at all. The Mara in March is teeming with game, and very much deserted by tourists. Most game drives we had the plains and our sightings to ourselves. We saw huge herds of topi, gazelles and impala. Plenty of zebras (yes, watch for McGarry & Mascall zebra paintings soon too!) and giraffes, and many of the Mara's very tolerant elephants, including a magnificent bull in musth, who gave us some really close views and a great sniff of his pungent musth cologne! All in all it was an awesome safari. Pip McGarry has already booked out a week in 2013, but we have one more week available...join us!